Climbing Utah

Eat, drink and be merry, for tomorrow you may be in Utah. - quote from a shotglass

I lived in Salt Lake City for a couple of years and the question always comes up, "Are you a Mormon?" No, I'm not, and despite the high percentage of the LDS around the state, it's still a lot of fun in the outdoors realm. The best place in my opinion are the parallel sandstone cracks of Indian Creek, San Rafael Swell and other surrounding areas of Moab. If you just love powerful crimpy bouldering, then you'll love Big Bend.

No photographs may be downloaded from this site without permission from the webmaster . No information is all inclusive; factors such as weather, physical and mental ability, gear, and unforseen events can make or break the trip. Die in the Desert nor Canyon Trek are responsible for accuracy of information provided herein as this website is a guide, not sole instruction for any particular activity. Seek instruction before starting any activity listed on this site, either through Canyon Trek Guides or another well qualified source.

Just north of Moab is the road area or Potash climbing area. This is a good place to get the idea of the trad climbing out here. The majority is shorter single pitch trad with varied gear so you won't need 10 of each size cam like in Indian Creek.

Bluff - South of Moab, south of Blanding lies a truly impressive uplift. This area contains a few scattered routes. It is empty, quiet and the cliff seems to go on forever. Some routes climb right next to Moki steps, footholds carved into the sandstome by the indians that once passed this way.

Valley of the Gods - From the highway north of Monument Valley its very easy to miss the humble sign to this area. A sort of mini Monument Valley, this holds true adventure clean aid climbs on sketchy sandstone. Another empty place for the solitary climber.

More information and topos are available from Eric Bjornstad's guide, 'Desert Rock IV'

The new Indian Creek Guidebook is available from Sharp End Publishing. Click the book to get it. A free excerpt from the book is available from the site as well.

Monument Valley - Pay $5. Stay on the roads and marked trails. Take only pictures leave only memories. No overnight camping. Rock Climbing is illegal. Certain marked trails are for guided tours only. It may seem unreasonable, but then again, most of the people in this nation don't belong here in the first place. The Navajo nation is sovereign meaning they were invaded and corraled into these areas long ago by a fledging scared Republic. Now you want to tour it, pay the price.