Climbing in Arizona

Granite Mountain - I've been told this is the best granite climbing next to Yosemite. Strong words and this place does hold up to it. Even when in Prescott this area is hidden from view. Instead Thumb Butte holds your attention as you get into town. Continue traveling north east through town to Granite Mountain recreation area and park at the Metate parking lot.

Camelback - In the heart of Phoenix. This place is damn hot in the summer and overrun with hikers in the cooler months. There is some good bouldering here and number of sport climbs. Be aware that this place is an ancient mud bed and the cobbles and binding rock has given way at the wrong moment. Best to wear a helmet and be sure of the climb you're doing. Climbs such as 3 Star Nightmare are named for a reason.

Queen Creek - Located 60 miles east of Phoenix downtown. Queen Creek is the home to the Phoenix Boulder Blast with thousands of great boulder problems. Almost as many quality sport climbs exist as well. This place is easy to get to and easy to learn the topography. Climbs range from 5.5 - 5.13c and are scattered all over the mountain east of Superior. The climbing guide to Queen Creek is now 8yrs old and new routes are popping up everyday. Plans for a new guide have been 2yrs in the making for the past 6, so new info can be hard to come by. Due to the economy of this area being extremely mining dependent, there is a threat of future closure. For information visit Friends of Queen Creek.

McDowell Mountains - Just northeast of Phoenix/Scottsdale area. The threat of more and more water consuming developments complete with fake lakes and golf courses continues to run unchecked in this area. As such the mountains are getting choked off to climbing, mountain biking and hiking. The granite is desert baked out here which means larger crystals and a fair amount od rotten rock. The good stuff is bullet hard and contains slab climbing and trad as well as some scattered bolted routes.

Pinnacle Peak - This area was closed for a few years due to development. After continued negotiations with the community and local climbers, the area was purchased by the City of Scottsdale and turned into a city park. This is probably the only area in the state with designated climber's trails and one hiking trail. About 1/3 to 1/2 of the climbing is still off limits since it wasn't purchased but Pinnacle Peak itself holds a number of good bold trad and bolted lines. The cactus flower and Y-Crack rocks have good routes as well.

No photographs may be downloaded from this site without permission from the webmaster . No information is all inclusive; factors such as weather, physical and mental ability, gear, and unforseen events can make or break the trip. Die in the Desert nor Canyon Trek are responsible for accuracy of information provided herein as this website is a guide, not sole instruction for any particular activity. Seek instruction before starting any activity listed on this site, either through Canyon Trek Guides or another well qualified source.

Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Finish - 5.9, 6 pitches. Most lines on this wall are must do classics, but this is the must do must do classic of the mountain. Coatimundi is a 5.11 through the left of the roof, Candyland is 5.7 through the right. Starting on Coati and finishing on Candyland keeps the grade at 5.9. Both routes are harder individually. Bring good sized gear, up to a 4.5 camalot if you plan to go straight up the crack. There is a wandering route to gain the second belay, this stays at 5.8 but be careful as this can introduce a lot of rope drag. The pitch through the 'Great Roof' is 5.7 and really intimidating, however not as scary as it looks. A bolt and piton (above the crack) help protect and gear is easy to place. Save some gear to build a belay around the corner.

Descending - After completing the route walk east to the Coke Bottle rappels. It is 4-5 rappells using on 60m rope. Be mindful of the first rappell as it is about 98' and just out of a single rope rappell length. Use two ropes or be extremely careful coming off that rappell.

The Classic - 5.7, 4 or 5 pitches. (no photos) This route is a good introduction to climbing at Granite mountain. The belays are easy to protect with gear and the climbing is solid. The 3rd pitch has a couple of variations, both 5.7 but awkward. The north wall has a cresent moon shaped crack to a ledge that heads right to the buttress. Or take the crack right in the buttress. Both end right on the knife edge of the buttress. From here, walk the uttress to a hole and rappell to the the ledge below. Or from the belay continue up and right on the bolted face to the top. Rappell from the coke bottles.

Magnolia Thunderpussy - 5.9, 4 pitches. The first pitch is the crux pitch. They are double cracks with the right one being easier to protect. Pull the roof and get right into the belay. The 2nd pitch is 3rd class. Pitch 3 involves a weird move out of the thunderpussy and into another belay. The last pitch is a chimney, watch your head. You can walk off to the west or rappel from Coke Bottles.

Pay the $5 day pass and head out on the granite mountain trail. As you walk the trail the rock reveals itself as an immense wall and continues to get bigger and taller. The climbing here is still and some climbs are a little polished. Some bolted lines exist but the majoirty is gear leads. Everything is multipitch with either well bolted or easy gear protected belays. This is day use only so you must be out of the park by 6pm. Keep that in mind and start early. Top off the day at Prescott Brewery.